Ethiopian
Rating: *** out of 5
Despite being a foodie in multicultural T.O, I have never experienced Ethiopian food cuisine. Named after one of Ethiopia’s holiest cities, Lalibela is a small, cozy restaurant nestled between Christie and Ossington on Bloor. We are seated immediately amid the bright, gaudy Middle Eastern décor and the pastel murals covering the walls.
The menu is extensive – mostly unrecognizable to us except for some Western staples – spaghetti and burgers. I order the only starter available: lentil soup ($4.50). The hearty homemade soup of brown lentils, hot peppers and crispy carrots warms the soul on this chilly night.
Lentil Soup
Our waitress recommends that we split the Meat Combination ($23 for two) and the vegetarian Lalibela ($14) platters. However, when they arrive the lights dim suddenly and we squint to see our food.
Both assemblies are served on one tray – which might have been a problem for vegetarians. Each item is laid out like a huge painter’s palette on top of fresh injera – a slightly sour pancake-like flatbread used to scoop up the other elements.
Through the dim light, we dive in blindly and start scooping. The interesting combination of well balanced textures and tastes ranges from spicy to sour. The platter consists of key wot, a tender lamb stew in a red lentil sauce, and doro wat, a sweet-and-spicy, fall-off-the-bone chicken dish reminiscent of Chicken Vindaloo—the latter of which is the first to be polished off. The assortment of split peas and red and green lentils provides a nice break for the palette, while crunchy cabbage and gomen (shredded collard greens), add a sour kick to the mix. A simple, crisp and refreshing garden salad tumbles from the centre of the platter.
Meat Combination & Lalibela Platter
We enquire about two unfamiliar dishes, and I discover that the stuffing-like dish I’m enjoying seasoned with sage and thyme, is dullet – a combination of ground lamb, tripe, green chile and onion. Also, a cold, lightly spiced and chewy mixture is called kitfo – minced raw beef, a sort of Ethiopian steak tartare, and despite my claim that “I will eat anything!,” this raw surprise is a little off-putting.
For five minutes we try to flag down a waitress bustling in the back of the restaurant. I order Baklava for dessert, but the waitress has to check if it’s available and never follows up. When we ask for change, she says they can’t break a bill. It’s a pity that poor service and dim lighting spoil our first Ethiopian meal of fresh and well presented plates.
869 Bloor Street West – east of Ossington. Toronto, Canada T: 416-535-6615; Open everyday from 10AM to 2AM
I SEE HUNGRY PEOPLE 